HVAC questions and answers

Call us and tell us what your system is doing and when it started. A few details up front, like what you've already checked, help the technician start in the right place.

A technician checks your system, finds the root cause, and explains what's wrong and what it takes to fix it. If replacing makes more sense, we say so and show why. You decide, and if it can be fixed, we fix it, test the system, and clean up.

No. No work starts until you say yes. You'll get the repair price before any work starts, so you can decide with the numbers in front of you.

Have a short list of what the system is doing, when it started, and anything you've already tried. Clear a path to the furnace, air handler, or outdoor unit. If you know the equipment's age or have old service papers, set them out too.

We serve homes across the Portland, Oregon and Vancouver, Washington metro area. See our service-area directory for the cities we cover, then give us your address so we can confirm.

Ask about timing when you call. We don't post arrival-time promises on this site until we can measure them and keep them. If your system is off and the house is getting too hot or cold, say so when you reach out.

It depends on what failed, the parts it needs, and the time it takes to fix. That's why you get the repair price after the technician finds the cause and before any work starts. Our guide explains what drives the cost up or down.

Ask about the diagnostic fee when you call. You'll know the repair price before any work starts.

Not an exact one, because the price depends on the cause the technician finds. The same symptom, like cold air from the vents, can come from a cheap part or an expensive one. Tell us what the system is doing and we'll explain what the visit covers.

A good quote says what's wrong, what will be done to fix it, the parts involved, and the total price. For a replacement, it should also name the equipment and what the install includes. If anything is vague, ask before you sign.

Ask which financing options are available when you call. If you're replacing a system, also ask whether a utility incentive applies. You may qualify — we'll confirm.

Repair it if it can be fixed and the rest of the system is sound; replace it when a repair no longer makes sense. We fix what can be fixed — and tell you straight when it can't. If replacing makes more sense, we say so and show why.

No. Age alone doesn't mean replace. ENERGY STAR suggests having equipment evaluated by a professional if it's more than 10 years old or not keeping the house comfortable. An evaluation may end in a repair, not a new system.

Look at the data plate, usually inside the furnace door or on the side of the outdoor unit. It lists a model and serial number, and many makers code the build date into the serial number. If you can't read it, a technician can.

Yes. Book a repair visit, and our technician will find the cause on their own and tell you whether it can be fixed. If replacing makes more sense, we say so and show why.

Often, yes. ENERGY STAR says to address big air leaks in the house and the duct system before you invest in new equipment, because they are sometimes the real source of the problem. Rooms that never feel right and high bills can both point to duct leaks.

Yes. When replacing makes more sense than repairing, you can ask us for a replacement estimate. You still decide, and no work starts until you say yes.

Often the thermostat fan is set to "On" instead of "Auto," so the blower runs between heating cycles. Other common causes are a clogged filter that makes the furnace shut down its burners, or an ignition or flame sensor problem. Check the thermostat and filter first; leave the rest for a technician.

Start with the simple things: thermostat set to "Heat" and above room temperature, fresh thermostat batteries, and the power switch near the furnace turned on. Make sure the furnace door is fully closed, since a door switch stops it from running. Reset a tripped breaker once; if it trips again, stop and call.

Check it every month and change it when it looks dirty. ENERGY STAR says to change it at least every 3 months. A dirty filter slows airflow and makes the system work harder.

A light dusty smell for a short time on the first cold day is common, because dust on the burners burns off. A smell like hot plastic or wiring, or one that doesn't fade, is not normal; turn the system off and call. If it smells like rotten eggs or gas, leave the house and call 911 from outside.

Yes. The U.S. EPA recommends having a trained professional inspect, clean, and tune up central heating systems, including furnaces, flues, and chimneys, every year. ENERGY STAR suggests doing the heating check in the fall.

Yes, heat pumps can heat homes here. The U.S. Department of Energy says that in moderate climates heat pumps can be an energy-efficient alternative to furnaces and air conditioners. During cold snaps, many systems lean on backup heat.

A light layer of frost in cold, damp weather is normal, and the unit clears it with a defrost cycle. Thick ice that stays on the coil or the top of the unit is not normal. Keep the unit clear of snow and debris, and call if the ice won't clear.

It's the backup heat that helps a heat pump when it can't keep up alone. Auxiliary heat turns on by itself, while emergency heat is a setting you pick by hand. Clark Public Utilities notes that auxiliary heat costs more to run than the heat pump.

Usually not. ENERGY STAR says heat pumps don't save energy by being turned down when you're asleep or away, unlike a furnace. Pick a comfortable temperature and leave it there.

Common causes are a dirty filter, an outdoor unit blocked by ice or debris, a thermostat problem, or a refrigerant issue. Check the filter, the thermostat mode, and the space around the outdoor unit. Refrigerant work is for a certified technician only.

The most common causes are a dirty filter, a blocked or dirty outdoor unit, a thermostat setting, or a frozen indoor coil. Check that the thermostat is on "Cool," change the filter, and clear space around the outdoor unit. If it still blows warm, turn it off and call.

Ice usually means the indoor coil got too cold, often from low airflow or a refrigerant problem. Turn the cooling off so the ice can melt, and check the filter. Running it frozen can damage the system, so call if the ice comes back.

Test it early, before the heat arrives. ENERGY STAR suggests checking the cooling system in the spring, because contractors get busy once summer comes. Change the filter, clear the outdoor unit, and run it on a warm day to make sure it cools.

Do the safe checks first: thermostat on "Cool," a clean filter, and a tripped breaker reset once. If it still won't cool, request service and tell us it's out. If your home gets too hot to stay in, go somewhere cool while you wait.

No. Leave refrigerant to a technician. Under the U.S. EPA's Section 608 rules, technicians who work with refrigerant must be certified. Low refrigerant also usually means a leak, which a top-off won't fix.

It's often a clogged condensate drain or a tripped float switch. ENERGY STAR notes that a plugged drain can cause water damage in the house. Turn the system off, wipe up the water, check that the drain line isn't visibly blocked, and call if it keeps leaking.

A ductless mini-split is a heat pump that heats and cools without ductwork. ENERGY STAR describes one or more indoor heads mounted on a wall or ceiling, linked by refrigerant lines to an outdoor unit. It works in reverse in summer to cool.

A blinking light is often an error code, so write down the pattern before you do anything else. Then check the remote's mode and batteries, the indoor filters, and the breaker, resetting it once if it tripped. If the blinking comes back, leave it for a technician.

Clean them when they look dirty or when the filter light comes on. That's ENERGY STAR's advice, since heat pumps work better with clean filters. Your owner's manual shows how to pop them out and rinse them.

It's usually better to pick "Heat" or "Cool" instead. ENERGY STAR says to avoid Auto mode so the system doesn't switch back and forth on unseasonably warm or cold days. For the fan, it suggests "Auto" or the lowest speed that spreads the air far enough.

It can be. ENERGY STAR lists homes with costly electric heat, like baseboards or wall heaters, and older homes with no ductwork as common fits. Energy Trust of Oregon and Clark Public Utilities both have ductless programs; you may qualify — we'll confirm.

A real tune-up checks the parts that wear, not just the filter. ENERGY STAR's checklist includes thermostat settings, electrical connections, moving parts, the condensate drain, and system controls. For cooling it adds coils and refrigerant level; for heating, gas connections, burner combustion, and the heat exchanger.

Check the cooling system in the spring and the heating system in the fall. ENERGY STAR suggests this timing because contractors get busy once summer and winter arrive. Tying it to the spring and fall time changes makes it easy to remember.

Ask whether a maintenance plan is available and what each visit covers so you can compare it with ENERGY STAR's tune-up checklist.

Use a MERV 13 filter if your system can handle it, or the highest rating it can take. That's the U.S. EPA's advice for smoke season, with the filter fitted snugly and never bent to fit. A technician can tell you what your system fan and filter slot allow.

Keep outdoor air out and run the fan through a good filter. The U.S. EPA says to close the fresh air intake or set it to recirculate, and with a high-efficiency filter in place, set the fan to "On" instead of "Auto." Check the filter often and change it when it looks dirty.

Only if they need it. The U.S. EPA recommends cleaning ducts only as needed, such as when they're clogged with a lot of dust and debris or particles blow out of the registers. After a wildfire, the same rule applies.

Leave the house now, even if the smell seems mild. Don't use phones, light switches, flashlights, lighters, or matches inside, and don't start a car. Once you're a safe distance away, call 911 and, if NW Natural is your gas utility, its 24-hour line at 800-882-3377. These steps come from NW Natural.

Get everyone outside into fresh air right away, then call 911. Don't go back in until emergency responders say it's safe. The U.S. EPA notes that carbon monoxide has no color, taste, or smell, so trust the alarm.

Headaches, dizziness, confusion, nausea, and flu-like symptoms that clear up when you leave home can all be signs, according to the U.S. EPA. If people in your home feel this way, get everyone outside and call 911. Tell them if the symptoms fade once you're outdoors.

Put a CO alarm on every level of your home and outside each sleeping area. That's the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission's advice, as shared by the U.S. EPA. The same guidance calls for a yearly professional check of fuel-burning equipment like furnaces.

No, leave the house first. NW Natural says leaving is the priority and not to search for the source of a leak. It describes shutting off the meter only during a natural disaster when it's safe, and says not to turn a meter back on yourself.

No. Don't relight a pilot, reset the furnace, or turn gas valves after a gas smell. Leave the house, call 911 and your gas utility from outside, and let them tell you when it's safe. After that, a technician can check the furnace.

Look them up on the state's own site: the Oregon Construction Contractors Board license search in Oregon, or Washington L&I's Verify a Contractor tool in Washington. The Oregon CCB says contractors must put their license number on advertising and websites. Washington's tool also shows bond, insurance, and license history.

In Oregon, ask about Energy Trust of Oregon if a participating utility serves you; in Clark County, Washington, ask about Clark Public Utilities' heat pump and ductless programs. Rules depend on your utility, your current heat, and the equipment. You may qualify — we'll confirm before you rely on it.

No. The IRS says the Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit covers improvements made through December 31, 2025, so it ended for equipment placed in service after that. Don't plan a new purchase around it.

Often, yes. Clark Public Utilities requires a contractor in its contractor network, and some Energy Trust of Oregon offers require a program-approved contractor. Ask about this before the install, not after.

Because you should hear whether your system can be fixed before anyone talks about replacing it. We fix what can be fixed — and tell you straight when it can't. If replacing makes more sense, we say so and show why.